Learning to taste and enjoy wine with the guru of (natural) wines in the United States
Marissa A. Ross was going to devote herself to comedy ... until the (natural) wine crossed her path.
If you sweep the Instagram of Marissa A. Ross (@marissaaross) or you get hooked on their stories newspapers you will see how the doors open to a new world of wine. The one in which you thought everything was already written and that there was little left to comment.
"Total, they already do all the gastroentendidos", you said to yourself, but much remains to be enjoyed in the paradise of good drinking. Although, we warn, his is not an approximation of the most common (his Ross test -in which the bottles he tastes as a hallmark is steep- is proof of that) but, that's just what fascinates us about it: being able to communicate his crush on wines-with an inclination almost always marked by the natural ones - and bring them closer to the public in an understandable and fun way. Total, here we have come to drink.
“When I started drinking I had no idea that there was life beyond the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Chardonnay,” says the book's writer Wine All The Time: The Casual Guide to Confident Drinking, editor of the magazine's wine section Bon Appétit Y blog founder Wine All the time since 2012
“When I came to Los Angeles I was trying to make a career as a comedian - he eventually became the Mindy Kayling assistant for 5 years and he had no money, so he drank cheap wines. ” That was until he got tired of drinking wines that always tasted the same and, suddenly, from tasting to tasting, he discovered Domaine LA, a natural wine shop in Los Angeles.
"I had no idea they were natural, I just thought that this is how wine tasted when it cost more than $ 10," he laughs from his home in Los Angeles.
Since then, he has been writing about the benefits of wine with an intelligible and original style, aimed at a new generation.
© Alive Baxley
Condé Nast Traveler: It seems easy, but it must be very difficult because almost nobody does it? What can wine drinkers do to avoid standardized thoughts and judgments and start thinking outside the canons?
M.R. First it is very important to stop thinking that there are good or bad answers when talking about wine. Of course you can be wrong in the technical sense, but when it comes to tasting, no. Second, you have to be very present. Really smell the wine, really taste it, take your time with it. And third, we must speak from the heart. I know it sounds cheesy dusty with a little Disney language but I really believe that good wine transports you. Maybe it takes you to your grandmother's house when you were a child or to the beach you've never been to, anyway let the wine take you and express yourself in ways you feel comfortable with, not with what "you think you should say ". Wine is something personal, so make it yours.
C.N. What wines obsess you lately?
M.R. I am looking at Italian wines, especially those from the Italian regions of Abruzzo and Umbria, where there is a resurgence of native varieties. Here you can get beautiful traditional Italian wines. I love the Collecapretta "LautizIo" Ciliegiolo, as well as his "Vigna Vecchia" Trebbiano Spoletino or the "Rosso" of Contestabile della Staffa. Although you can also get more avant-garde wines from producers such as Lamiddia, Cantina Margó and Vini Rabasco.
C.N. Why do you think the world of wine has been so strict and closed so far?
M.R. I like to think of wine as a pendulum, always balancing between people and status. For many decades wine was a status symbol. It was for the rich and the intellectuals, it was even their own form of classism. But right now the pendulum is coming back, almost like a kind of "revenge." People are tired of wine being such a serious matter, rather than something that has to be enjoyed and fun. They even rejoice with this fact. It is a very exciting moment.
C.N. Have you had problems with the "classic journalists" of wine because of the way you write and think?
M.R. Oh, of course. Constantly. Especially as a woman without formal "training." It does not matter that you have written a book about wine or that you are the person in charge of the wines that are published in a gastronomic magazine. I still receive criticism for not knowing the classic products of Burgundy or for mispronouncing French words. Even for the clothes I wear. But for me it is important to remember that much of that comes from the old guard, those people who have benefited from the wine being something classist and closed and, therefore, feel threatened. In addition, there is gili $% & in all industries (laughs).
C.N. We love how every time you explain the flavors and smells of the wines you try, you usually do it with musical references. For example, one of your reviews reads: "The Hey Gro by François Saint-Lô is drunk as the Chance the Rapper album." How do you usually find links between wine and music?
M.R. It's funny because it's not something you usually do consciously. Since I was little I wanted to work in television and film, so I became obsessed with music as a narrative resource. I loved how the right song could intensify an emotion. Everything in my life has had a soundtrack, from the scripts I've written to the compilation CD's that I used to make for my birthday parties. And for me wines are a story. They have their own, but also the one that they personally tell who drinks them. That leads me directly to plant a soundtrack. I can not help it.
© Alice Baxley
C.N. Any Spanish producer that is on your radar?
M.R. There are many! I am a fan of MicroBio in Castilla y León. In Catalonia my favorites are Els Jelipins, Finca Parera and Partida Creus.
C.N. Now, a quick round of curious facts.
-If you were a wine, what would you be? Based on the amount he consumed from him would probably be a Gamay. But being honest, it would probably be a volatile Italian pétillant-naturel, a fun and passionate one, but also able to explode when not treated as it should.
-What are you drinking right now? I'm drinking a bubbleless cider called "Rosemary Farm" from Floral Terranes, of Long Island. I was skeptical at first. No bubbles: how good could it be? But it is perfect and it is drunk like a wine. The nose reminds of mint, fennel and a spicy apple drink. Very similar - but with a shock glorious - to the acidity of the lemon. Juicy but not sweet.
-Could you recommend us your favorite wine bars? Here it may be very unimportant because being from California I usually pull for our own, like Ordinaire in Oakland. I also love La Buvette and Racines in Paris; Brutal Bar in Barcelona and Ten Bells in New York.