Madrid (gastronomic) castizo
A review of the Madrid gastronomic castizo; the one before and now
Calluses with curry © La Tasquería
“The capital of the hug”, as summarized by the mayor of Madrid, Manuela Carmena, the idea of a city that it has for all Madrid residents and beyond.
It's nice. It is still a transcript of the image that we all have of this city of nobody. Ramón Gómez de la Serna already said it: “Madrid is having nothing and having everything, Madrid is improvisation and tenacity”. A little meeting point, everyone's house, coffee gatherings and gin and tonics on Tuesdays, also on Tuesdays.
Its cuisine is also, traditional and friendly. Madrid are its reeds as the pintxos are to San Sebastián, because this It is a city that lives on the street and so you have to understand its cuisine: their tortilla tapas (slug, the tortilla has to be slug), the mushrooms in the Blue swan (Gravina Street, 19) or some anchovies and bravas on so many tables under the spring sun - how beautiful Madrid in May: its terraces and acacias, its vibration (it is unique) and that 'living now' so ours because time is going, we are going -.
Tortilla of brains and kokotxas © La Tasquería
It's easy to eat well in Madrid, but What is the traditional cuisine if that exists? It certainly is the farmhouse (poor kitchen), the chicken coops during San Lorenzo or the Virgen de la Paloma, but also viscera, nose, brains, ears and pigskin, lamb asadurillas (lung and liver), Madrid tripe, trotters or garlic gizzards. Head and heart.
Few tascas have understood this new Madrid as well as La Tasquería by Javi Estévez (Duque de Sesto Street, 48) or The Elisa Tavern by Javier Goya, Javier Mayor and David Alfonso (Tricycle), a 1907 Castilian kitchen house recovered for the Barrio de las Letras (42 Santa Maria Street).
A classic? Gallinejas Freice in Ambassadors (number 84). They drive me crazy, by the way, the calluses of the Vinoteca of the Brothers García de la Navarra in Montalbán (number 3)And the walk after El Prado, too.
This is what a 1907 Castilian kitchen house looks like © La Elisa
The fabada of Mrs. Julia in Asturians (Vallehermoso Street, 94), the squid of The fisherman (José Ortega y Gasset street, 75), the last chamomiles in The Venencia (Echegaray Street, 7) and so many fishmongers in this port of dry Spain: "The fishmongers of Madrid in summer are the nostalgia of Castilla by the sea", wrote González Ruano on a table at Café Teide.
Madrid is the Botillería and Fogón de Sacha-Sacha or barbarism- (Juan Hurtado de Mendoza Street, 11); the salad with ventresca and caviar from the Tasquita of Opposite (Ballesta Street, 6); Iñaki Camba's hunt in Maple (Augusto Figueroa Street, 32); the fabulous black butter stripe of The good life (Conde de Xiquena street, 8) or pickled Iberian pork in the Verdejo Tavern from Marian and Carmen (street of Espartinas, 6).
Madrid is his legacy and his memory. And it is that few cities have understood as well as the Forum that we are what precedes us, if we are nothing more than bits of what we were.
Therefore, they fill up the flag (every day) Victor and Angels Membibre in Chamberí (Guzmán El Bueno street, 40), because they know they don't have to invent the wheel: Just feed well.
A bit like that Commercial Café that has returned to the Bilbao roundabout the mid-morning coffees and the torreznos next to a flat garnacha; Tell the present by understanding the past.
It is the story of Pepe Roch, chef of the restaurant, “the traditional Madrid that reminds me of my childhood is the one you found in any neighborhood bar any day; on the weekends your parents drank reeds and we soda, and you stood on tiptoe to get with the stick chop anchovies in vinegar, croquettes or the squid sandwich cut into three parts ...
Now, in the Commercial Café, we seek to reach the diner with the flavors of our Madrid cuisine and with a renewed staging but faithful to the origin of honest and sincere cuisine ”.
Madrid is its gastronomy, its tapas and its canes but in reality it is more than all that, because it is also its warmth, its excesses and its infinite predisposition to noise. Madrid has not happened, Madrid is happening.
At the Café Café bar © Café Comercial