X-ray of the Betanzos tortilla
DEATH FOR SALIVATION © Taberna Pedraza
IN BETANZOS, WHEN?
If we have to talk about origin of the Betanzos tortilla, although we have proof of the existence of the potato omelette since the 19th century, we have to go back to the beginning of the 20th century. Would be the La Casilla restaurant, already centenary and still in operation, responsible for the existence of this tortilla that became popular a hundred years ago.
For three generations, the tradition of making an omelet with more egg became very popular, which pushed the other restaurateurs to imitate the gesture until it became a distinctive gastronomic icon of the town.
Potato tortillas are as many varieties as fish in the sea. The ingredients of the Betanzos tortilla are four: Potato, egg, olive oil and salt. No more The complication is in the pan, because it is about an omelet with undercooked egg (not raw), which has to be subtly curdled on the outside and cooked minimally inside.
They know a lot about that in Betanzoswhere since 2007 lThe restaurants themselves compete with each other in a contest to get the best tortilla. Casa Miranda, La Casilla, Inn or Pot, all of them. And such is the tourist claim that the Betanzos omelette has that has been gaining adherents in other lands for years, such as Madrid.
Here, they are authentic experts © Mesón O Pote
MADRID, CITY OF LA TORTILLA
Madrid is a very tortilla city. We love tortillas, we like them more than Mondays that fall on holidays. It is a fact. It is difficult to find a tapas bar or restaurant in which there is no reference to the potato omelette, with or without onion. However, when it comes to the Betanzos tortilla, or Betanzos style As some say, things change. There are not so many places to taste it
Two of the places where the Betanzos tortilla has had its place in the capital have been The penis (Velázque street, 87) Y Ocafu (Jorge Juan Street, 29), both from the same group. Although the concepts are very different, since one is more traditional and the other more modernized, the tortilla they make is basically the same, with the undisputed Betanzos seal. The tortilla is very juicy inside, a true delicacy. In addition, they rescue the Galician spirit accompanying this delicatessen with Grilled scallops, mussels, razors and other seafood. It is a matter of being carried away.
One of the places to taste it in the capital © Ocafú
THE MAGIC OF THE TABERNA PEDRAZA
When the Pedraza Tavern (Ibiza street, 38) entered the scene, the world changed. Pedraza Tavern opened at the premises next to its current location on April 10, 2014. There they were until November 15, 2015, date on which they moved to number 38. And today, Santiago Pedraza and Carmen Carro, souls Master of the tavern, open the door to Traveler to reveal his secret
“When we opened, many people told us that we were wrong, that the public would not understand, that the tortilla of that type was not going to like and that likewise would produce rejection. We have seen that it is not so and that people have demanded a lot. What we do is put a lot of passion and a lot of analysis. Popularizing a dish that was not as well known gives us a lot of satisfaction. ”says Santiago.
Carmen marched to Betanzos to form in O Pote and, upon returning, the miracle materialized. To find the formula, Santiago and Carmen were testing countless times at home. When they discovered the Betanzos tortilla it was almost a shock to them. The egg used is a poultry egg, which already makes it different. “We were right but not without many fears, because we had no background and we feared the public's response,” Santiago says.
When they entered the scene, the world changed © Taberna Pedraza
The tortillas of Betanzos have been made only by Carmen since its opening, the nearly 30,000 tortillas they carry. He is making continuous tortillas all day. A day can get to leave about 60, which would be about 1000 a month.
To make it perfect, the tortilla must have regularity above all and, on the other hand, the quality of the ingredients. “The potato is what we are waiting for the most, it changes the most. Regarding the egg must have a great quality and freshness. You have to know what kind of egg you have to use, what characteristics does it have. A few days apart in the date of egg laying can completely change the value of the tortilla. And we have achieved it. Carmen weighed absolutely all the eggs. Its setting date is 24 to 48 hours. ”Adds Santiago
The Pedraza formula has a mathematical part and a technical part. Mathematics because everything is very measured and technical because you have to have a special skill. Every month and a half or two months Carmen sees that the potato must be changed, that it cannot be the same. She is aware of absolutely everything, almost a fight against the elements. It is a 'superwoman'. The potato has to stay to the point of fried and make the tortilla stay white, close and the egg is inside. This series of technical complications They make this dish a culinary feat.
They carry more than 30,000 tortillas behind them © David Díaz (@Zapp_Amezcua)
“In summer the ingredients do not respond the same as in winter so you have to observe how the tortilla behaves, You have to understand it to see how to act. Sometimes things like a door open while cooking are influenced. And the potato always changes with respect to the origin. Now we have Cartagena potato that fries wonderfully, ”Carmen explains.
Its formula is 250 grams of potato for four eggs. The potato must always be cold and kept in low temperature water. The egg is not beaten, it is stirred with enveloping movements. The pan must be like the ones before, with the right depth to make the shape. They turn several times in the pan so that the edges are closed and ready. And in theory it seems simple, but in practice ...
The result is a simply spectacular tortilla in the style of Betanzos, with a delicate consistency on the outside and a sublime creaminess inside. Unmatched, a whole work of art. And if the accompaniment is the croquettes of acorn-fed Iberian ham, you can levitate like Santa Teresa.
Carmen, who was a finalist in 2015 in the first edition of the International Iberian Ham Croquettes Championship held in Madrid Fusión, may well boast of possibly having the best croquettes in the capital. Attest.
Attention to these ham croquettes © David Díaz (@Zapp_Amezcua)