Trendy restaurants in Lisbon
We continue our glutton tour (remember our first ride) through the city of the Seven Hills to discover its culinary treasures and meet its protagonists: chefs hungry for creativity that with imagination and passion have turned the Lisbon gastronomic panorama in one of the most vibrant in Europe. In this trip we have found influences of the gastronomy of the former Portuguese colonies, women in front of the stove (finally!), And even a Galician chef determined to leave his particular imprint on the panorama gastrofashion from the city.
Bacalhau à brás © Feitoría
CAVE 23: THE DISCOVERY
Once upon a time there was a fairytale palace located in one of the hills of the old Lisbon: whitewashed walls of blue, views of scandal and a perfect garden to disappear from the world, especially in these convulsive times. The palace kept a great secret: through some hidden stone stairs one descended into an intimate universe of overflowing creativity.
Cave 23, is undoubtedly one of the last and most exciting surprises of the Lisbon gastronomic panorama. After the project, an enthusiastic and young entrepreneur, Antonio Botelho, determined to contribute his grain of sand to this Lisbon in effervescence. After the stove, a true revelation, the Chef Ana Moura, 31 years old, who shares his story with us: worked with Arzak and in other restaurants in the Basque Country until Antonio called her to propose this project. Ana Moura mixes a kitchen based on Portuguese products with international influences: Asian and even Turkish but always “Looking for dishes that make sense”.
Ana Moura © Silvia Martínez
The menu, à la carte, is simply exceptional: The shrimp with seafood cream and coconut milk with crispy chicken almost leaves us speechless. Especially interesting is its particular tribute to the sardine lisboeta (cooked in tomato water, watercress and foie). For dessert: the solid watermelon cocktail and tequila Sunrise and its roasted pineapple from the Azores with ginger cream and hazelnut powder, biscuit and tea.
Romantic and intimate atmosphere in a space with few tables and excellent service. A secret? For € 50 you will have one of the best possible dinners in Lisbon.
Cave tuna 23 © Silvia Martínez
CANTINHO DO AZIZ, AFRICAN FLAVORS
At the end of narrow Beco das Farinhas, in the heart of the Morería neighborhood, we find the Cantinho do Aziz, a true tribute to the delicious and colorful cuisine of the former Portuguese colonies. The restaurant has been declared by several publications as the best African restaurant in the city, and although it has been open for more than 30 years by the Indo-Mozambican family of Sulemange, Only in recent times has it become a true gastronomic milestone.
At their tables, dressed in ethnic tablecloths, they sit an unlikely mix of executives, tourists, hippies and Africans in search of the flavors of their origins. On the walls of the terrace are displayed, printed on the wall, photographs of the family, among which the one of Jeny Sulemange, the current chef, a woman with character who has inherited all the culinary secrets of the family, adding her own experiences acquired in other countries.
The result is a splendid and forceful meal, where the african flavors and above all Mozambicans are orchestrated with true expertise. Don't miss the Peixe Gâlí, one of the star dishes, a variety of fish made in a red sauce with cassava or the Camarâo com Quiabos (Prawns in coconut sauce with Quiabos accompanied by coconut rice).
Your secret? A lot of passion and products brought directly from Mozambique. The success of Cantinho do Aziz has been such that the opening of a second is being prepared, neither more nor less than in Miami.
Cantinho do Aziz: Africa in the heart of Lisbon © Silvia Martínez
FEITORY, TRAVEL THROUGH THE ATLANTIC
A Michelin star, the Feitoria restaurant is without a doubt, one of the indisputable references of gastronomy in Lisbon. Located in the Altis Belém Hotel, whose transparent architecture seems to blend in with the Tagus, Feitoria has achieved for four years keep the coveted star thanks to the creative instinct of its executive chef, Joâo Rodrigues, one of those chefs who only seems to feel really comfortable behind the stove.
With a reserved nature, his professional experience has passed, unlike other well-known Portuguese chefs, exclusively in Portugal. The Atlantic and the ocean are its great sources of inspiration for a tasting menu in which each dish tells a story and where the staging is of fundamental importance.
In an elegant room, perhaps too cold and not very intimate, we launch ourselves next to Joâo Rodrigues to a gastronomic trip in which we find from a fantastic review of the typical Bacalhau à Bras, to a tribute to the slaughter of the pig, one of the few concessions that this chef makes in favor of the meat, in which he combines perfection an Iberian prey with a heart of grilled lettuce with the juice of black garlic. However, fish is always the main character like squid and shrimp with peanuts and dashi.
'Peixe' of the day at Feitoría © Silvia Martínez
MODERN TABERNA, PAIRS WITH GIN TONIC
Luis Carballo He was a successful executive when he decided to take a sabbatical period 6 years ago. She stressed in beautiful Lisbon and as many others would never leave her, changing the suit and meetings for the stove and a tavern, Modern Tavern, which is already one of the favorites of lisboetas, for its fantastic food, its casual and fun decoration, perfect for a dinner with friends, and its star drink, the gin and tonic.
And this Galician pure strainHe was one of the first to introduce the fashion of gin and tonic in Portuguese lands, proposing to the then incredulous parish to taste the dishes with a gin and tonic prepared “as God commands”. The reluctance would be only initial since Luis assures us that currently 80% of the meals They are made accompanied by a cocktail prepared with one of the 100 gins available in your Gin Bar, Lisbonite. "The best in the world", assures us.
As for the menu, it is composed of different international dishes in which the quality of the product and the absence of temperos prevail. As star dishes choco black rice or broken eggs with gluttony and prawns, two local classics. Luis presents us today with his new creations: a spinach gnocchi salad with pine nuts and 12-month parmesan reduction and a scallop salad braised with tobiku and spinach salad with cherry tomatoes and goat cheese. A true wonder Ah! Only missing the gin and tonic, juniper and very fresh.
Gnocchi Salad © Silvia Martínez
OS GAZETEIROS, A VERY FRESH RESTAURANT
David Eyguesier, French chef at the head of the kitchen of the tiny restaurant “Os Gazeteiros”, on a very steep street in the Graça neighborhood, has only one obsession: the freshness of food and its biological origin. So much so that every day the card changes based on what it finds in the market. "Every day I see what's cooler and based on availability I prepare the menu." A unique three-course menu that changes every day is the novel proposal of this young Frenchman based in Lisbon. A healthy kitchen that, however, does not imply giving up creativity and to the mixture of flavors among which Asian influences stand out.
On the menu of the day we eat an excellent soup of cauliflower, celery, radishes and buckwheat seeds, a loin with pumpkin, tomato sauce and onion confit in port wine and as a dessert strawberries with berries with cookies. The wines are equally biological.
For David, his restaurant is a mix of good food, good service (they reject reservations even when the restaurant is not full to ensure exceptional service) and good music. Music? Yes, like the menu, every day the "soundtrack" It changes depending on the humor of the chef or the gastronomic proposal. Without a doubt, a discovery.
Borrego in Os Gazeteiros © Silvia Martínez
TO CEVICHERÍA, PERU IN LISBON
“I have two passions, helping people and gastronomy”Kiko Martins tells us. Curiously, his passion for gastronomy arises when distributing food to homeless people discovers that cooking can help make others happier. Later he embarks on a trip around the world in which he will explore the cuisine of 26 countries. Back in Lisbon he decides to undertake several projects in which he puts into practice what he learned in his gastronomic journey.
The last one is To Cevicheria, located in Principe Real, where Martins' goal is to offer different ways of eating fish from Peruvian cuisine. “One day I remembered the feeling of eating a ceviche in the port of Lima and told me that I had to reproduce that feeling in Lisbon”. Immaculate white space where however the protagonist is an immense octopus that hangs from the center of the room, a clear warning of the spirit of the place, funny “good vibes”, in the words of own Kiko Martins
Kiko Martins, recreates his own version of Peruvian cuisine in perfect pairing with Portuguese elements as in the Quinoto of the Sea (Quinoa risoto), the star dish in which quinoa is cooked is a cataplana broth, seaweed, oyster foam and fish. Accompany it with the house cocktail, Pisco Sour and you will be in heaven.
To Cevicheria © Silvia Martínez
To Cevicheria © Silvia Martínez